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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.